There are some situations
in which spinner rigs are more effective than others.
When the walleyes are active and spread out, spinner
rigs produce very well. A spinner rig can usually be
worked quicker than a straight rig, which is important
if the fish are scattered. The faster you can move a
bait, the more fish you can show it to. The blade will
also attract walleyes from a longer distance.
Covering water quickly and keeping the presentation
in the fish zone are the key elements. Power-trolling
bottom bouncers and spinners accomplish both.
In dirty water, the fish obviously can't see as far.
The blade will help in this condition. It throws flash
and vibration, which enables the fish to find a bait
much easier. In dirty water, use a blade that is larger
and brighter than a blade used in clear water. Orange
and chartreuse blades are good in stained water; silver
and white are good in water that has more visibility.
When using spinners, snell length is important. The
snell length is the distance from the swivel to the
hook. When moving quickly, as a general rule increase
the snell length. The faster you go, the lower the bait
will ride. A faster presentation is usually called for
in clear water, and you want the bait up high enough
so the fish can see it from farther away. Also, walleye
are more likely to go up for a bait than go down for
it.
In dirty water, the walleyes will often be closer to
the bottom. This calls for a shorter snell that will
get the bait right down in the walleye's face.
One important thing I’I've found out about spinners
is that the speed is very critical. If you’re
getting bites from perch, sheepshead or other rough
fish you’re going too slow. Just bump the speed
up enough so they leave it alone. Sometimes, if you
bump the speed up you don’t even have to move
spots and you’ll start catching walleyes.
The bait of choice is a big juicy nightcrawler, twirling
behind a spinner on a double hook rig. Leeches and minnows
can also be used, but it’s tough to beat a crawler,
especially during early and late spring. To drag the
whole package to the bottom and keep it in the fish
zone, a variety of lead in different sizes and shapes
is available. Yet, the bottom bouncer, an L shaped piece
of wire with a lead weight on one end and an eye for
attaching the line to the other end, has been the most
popular approach for trolling spinner rigs. Bottom bouncers
work well over rocks, sand, gravel and mud, shallow
to moderate depths.
Getting the bait to where the walleyes live has also
been a piece of the puzzle. Until recently many anglers
would use a 3-way rig to offer the spinners to walleyes
suspended off the bottom. The basic rig features a three-way
swivel with two attached lines a 12 to 24 inch drop
line with a 1 to 3 ounce bell sinker and a 30 to 40
inch leader tied to your bait or lure. The drop line
positions your offering a set distance above the bottom,
while the leader provides an invisible connection between
the swivel and lure.
Use a 1 2/3 to 3 ounce weight to maintain trolling drifting
speeds of 1 1/2 to 2.5 miles per hour with spinners
or crankbaits, or to hold live bait steady in current.
Lighter weights 1/2 to 1-ounce work better with subtle
livebait rigs or floating jigheads fished slower with
frequent pauses. The 3-way is a good rig to use when
the walleyes are spread out, and it's easy to put together.
Simply tie the line from your reel to one eye of a 3-way
swivel. The dropper holding a bell sinker is tied to
another eye and the line for the bait or lure is tied
to the third eye. A large area can be covered quickly
and effectively with 3-ways. In water 20 to 40 feet
deep, it might be necessary to go with up to 4 ounces
of weight, while in shallow water only a half-ounce
sinker is necessary. The key is, enough weight should
be used to maintain contact with the bottom at whatever
speed you're moving.
Sometimes, when the wind is low and the fish are finicky
about the offering I will downsize to a 1/4-ounce sinker,
or I will trim off a hook on a 1/4-ounce jig to replace
the dropper weight. This also is the weight that I would
use on a Storm Thunderstick pulled on a long snell to
make these walleyes more aggressive.
Experiment with dropper and snell length. The dropper
is the line going from the swivel to the sinker. When
the walleyes are tight to the bottom, use a short dropper,
sometimes as short as 8 inches. Other times, when the
fish are riding high, go with a dropper that is about
as long as the distance of the fish from the bottom.
The snell is the line extending from the swivel to the
bait or lure. In clear water, a long snell is usually
more productive. Start with a 6-foot snell and experiment
from there. With the aide of my LMS 350 I can identify
good structure to pull spinners through. I will keep
my eye on the depth and when it is legal I will use
a multi-line approach. One rod is held in my hand the
other in a rod holder. The one that is in the rod holder
is called a “dead stick”. Often the “dead
stick will out-produce the hand held rod. A lot of the
time with the dead stick you actually give the fish
a little more time to suck in the bait. Sometimes with
the hand held rod I become over anxious and set the
hook prematurely. The dead stick is more forgiving and
allows the walleye to set the hook naturally. Power
trolling Rainbow Spinners will increase more walleyes
in the boat this spring and summer. Keep these simple
ideas in mind and remember to practice selective harvest.